Let them drink cake
Joelle Thomson steps into the rapidly growing world
of flavour-infused wines...
The wine industry appears to be in the middle of an infusion-driven boom. From the non-alcoholic Non range with its culinary-inspired flavours, to recent local addition Vera (an elderflower- and fruit-infused wine spritz), and now Patisserie – where they aim to put the bakery in the bottle.
As the name suggests, Patisserie’s creators have modelled their marketing on fresh baked flavours – the range includes a Crème Brûlée Chardonnay and a Pineapple Madeleine Pinot Gris, among others.
The wines come in such an attractive bottle with its embossed base and a font that tips its hat to the art nouveau movement that, well, it’s hard to argue against the place of these products in a world where wine consumption is down and a focus on not drinking is up.
These new spins on wine are pouring off production lines faster than traditionalists can raise an eyebrow. Are they controversial in terms of infusing the concept (and taste) of fruit and other ingredients into wine? Yes. Are they popular? Let’s find out.
“These new spins on wine are pouring off production lines faster than traditionalists can raise an eyebrow.”
I put a bunch of new flavour-infused wines to the test, pouring them blind for a dozen people spanning a range of ages. The majority liked the fresh, fruity flavours of the Patisserie wines and some of the other brands. Some found them “on the sweet side” but only mentioned this after enjoying a glass fairly swiftly.
As one person noted, lifting a large glass of Waiheke Syrah to her lips afterwards: “I learnt to like wine because of sweet wines, not despite them.”
The new Patisserie range of flavour-infused wines.
There’s always an entry point to wine. It tends to follow the arc of light and sweet, to dry and full-bodied, to tannic and dark, then back again to light and sweeter with the balance of bracing acidity. It’s not necessarily an indication of a person’s age either, but rather of their evolving tastebuds.
There’s a school of thought that younger drinkers are driving a shift toward sweeter, fruitier, lighter wine styles, but haven’t they always? Younger consumers often favour experimentation and approachability over the perceived complexity of traditional wine. They are also more health-conscious, along with older generations today. This explains, in part, the rapid rise of low- and no-alcohol wines.
Flavoured wines are another story, however. Their approachable taste (due to being sweeter and softer) appeals to anyone who finds traditional wines potentially intimidating. And they look good. The packaging has evolved beyond looking like they’re not wine (and therefore – irresponsibly in my view – not a beverage that contains alcohol) to something that looks like wine but clearly may not appeal to those who have forged a love for top shelf, dry-as-a-bone wine.
I find myself doing a double take on flavoured wines but I can see that the marketing and taste both hold undeniable appeal for newcomers to it. And if these wines bring in a new generation of wine drinkers, all power to them.
Wine is one of the most complex beverages on Earth. There’s only one chance each year to pick grapes and make wine and a winemaker’s response to those grapes is what makes wine so intriguing intellectually, as well as compelling to enjoy. Flavour-infused wines could well be another step on that journey.
Try these...
Vera Elderflower-Infused Sauvignon Blanc
RRP $4.99 (250ml can)
Fresh Finds
Elderflower lifts the natural powerful aromatics of Sauvignon Blanc, adding a delicate botanical sweetness in a light-bodied wine spritz with 5% ABV. The range also includes Elderflower & Golden Kiwifruit Infused Pinot Gris, and Strawberry & Elderflower Infused Rosé.
Patisserie Crème Brûlée Chardonnay
RRP $22.99
Stone Pony
A Chardonnay with layers of vanilla custard, caramelised sugar and baked stone fruit. This is smooth, soft and creamy with a sweeter taste across the palate and 9% ABV.
Patisserie Pineapple Madeleine Pinot Gris
RRP $22.99
Stone Pony
Tropical, fragrant and lightly sweet, this wine is a nod to French pastries and summery aromas. Light-bodied with a fresh, crisp twist.
Joelle Thomson is a journalist, wine writer and author.
