The many faces of Pinot Noir
Joelle Thomson takes a voyage of discovery
through Central Otago Pinot Noir...
Vintage was about three-quarters over by the time I landed in Central Otago in mid-April this year to host a tasting on a sun-drenched vineyard in Pisa.
The tasting was for Mora Wines’ Annual Harvest Celebration lunch and the event was called ‘The Many Faces of Pinot Noir’; a fitting name for a tasting of wines from this most southern wine region.
Approximately 80% of Central Otago’s producing vineyard land is devoted to Pinot Noir, but not all of those grapes make red wine. The majority do, but a substantial proportion also go towards making Rosé and high-quality sparkling wines, across a wide range of styles.
A relatively small proportion make soft, fruity reds that are part of the growing global trend of chillable red wines, such as Mora’s Laeto Pinot Noir – a delicious, smooth Pinot Noir with a softness that sets it apart from the crowd.
So, how was vintage 2025 in Central Otago?
Felton Road winemaker Blair Walter describes it as “a very decent vintage with yields that were pleasingly similar to 2024 and 2023”, only marginally lighter due to a frost during flowering in early November last year.
Fortunately, this was offset by superb weather that followed, ensuring a good fruit set. This means there’s a decent volume of grapes but it’s the quality that blew me away.
“Time was also spent tasting through fascinating Pinot Noir ferments at Quartz Reef.”
Over five days in Central, I spent nearly two of them in the vineyard at Felton Road, picking Pinot Noir grapes that were in near-perfect health.
Time was also spent tasting through fascinating Pinot Noir ferments at Quartz Reef where Rudi Bauer, winemaker, founder and co-owner, was characteristically circumspect about vintage 2025. “It’s early days, but so far I’m happy because the impact of cooler nighttime temperatures (on average) and very warm days means our grapes have firm acidity, which is good for the longevity of our wines.”
More importantly, for lovers of outstanding méthode traditionelle, he will make a vintage Blanc de Blancs bubbly from 2025.
Rudi and the Quartz Reef team have collectively forged a name for the most consistently high quality méthode traditionelle from Central Otago, and
one that’s among the top three in New Zealand today, in my view. Quartz Reef has done so well with its bubbly that its production has grown from 40% of the winery’s overall production to about 50%.
The visit in April was also a chance to visit the Dicey brothers’ winery for the first time and to visit Carrick Winery’s new cellar door. Talk about a room with a spectacular view over Bannockburn Inlet.
The trip revealed so many good wines and several spectacular ones. Watch
this space.
Stand-out Central Otago wines
Both these wines are certified organic and biodynamic with BioGro NZ and Demeter.
2023 Felton Road MacMuir Vineyard Pinot Noir
Mineral RRP $128
Powerful and elegant Pinot Noir from the MacMuir Vineyard on Felton Road. This was once part of the Calvert Vineyard but is now a site in its own right and planted in a range of Pinot Noir clones, including 828 and 943, along with preferred clones from parent vines at Felton Road. Deep ruby in colour with a smooth full body and notes of spice, this layered Pinot Noir has a long life ahead.
2019 Quartz Reef Blanc de Blancs
Vintners RRP $85
The jewel in the Quartz Reef sparkling wine crown is made entirely from Chardonnay and is a crisp, citrusy wine with a full body, biscuity aromas and creamy baked apple tart notes. This is youthful now and will evolve into an even greater expression of Central Otago méthode traditionelle.
Joelle Thomson is a journalist, wine writer and author.
