Chasing an Assyrtiko dream
Those looking for a different white wine style to try this summer would do well to seek out the latest Assyrtiko from South Australia’s Jim Barry Wines, says Joelle Thomson...
It was more than the taste of Assyrtiko that first stopped Peter Barry in his tracks while on holiday with his wife, Sue, on the Greek island of Santorini in 2006.
The island’s desert-like growing conditions, saline soils and high winds mean the vines have to be cultivated in basket-like trellises grown close to the ground to provide protection from high winds and heat waves.
Barry was impressed by the maverick viticultural methods, as well as Assyrtiko’s bold taste and ability to retain relatively high acidity in a hot climate. His family’s Clare Valley winery was already well-known for its world-class Riesling and struck by the parallels, he decided to explore further.
Peter Barry tasted as many Assyrtiko as he could find at the London Wine Fair in 2007 and says that every one of them cemented his faith in the Mediterranean white grape’s potential to suit South Australia’s growing climate well.
Assyrtiko’s ability to retain freshness in dry conditions such as those on Santorini (which has an average rainfall of less than 300mm, strong winds and intensely harsh sun) inspired him to work on getting vine cuttings to take to Australia.
“The Barry family launched Australia’s
first Assyrtiko in 2016.”
Australia’s first Assyrtiko vineyards
Peter Barry’s quest began with Konstantinos Lazarakis, a Master of Wine, who introduced him to Yiannis Paraskevopoulos from Gaia Wines, which produces outstanding Assyrtiko on Santorini. Together, they collected 12 dormant Assyrtiko cuttings from a single vine and established a clone, which was taken back to Australia and placed in quarantine for the mandatory two years. The two best cuttings were released in 2010 and in 2011 and grew 32 buds, which were grafted onto Riesling vines in two vineyards in the Lodge Hill and Watervale vineyards: two sites highly prized for Riesling.
The first wine
The Barry family launched Australia’s first Assyrtiko in 2016 and, ever since, its acidity has been higher and its pH lower than the Riesling with which it shares space. This underscores the potential of Assyrtiko to thrive in the Clare Valley, says Peter Barry.
More vines had been planted in 2015 and, at a tasting in Wellington in September this year, Peter’s son, Sam Barry, shared more of the story of Australian Assyrtiko.
The 2017 Jim Barry Assyrtiko won the Trophy for Best Dry White other than Riesling at the 2018 Clare Valley Wine Show – no mean feat for a Greek grape variety growing in a region devoted to Riesling.
Clare Valley Assyrtiko has earned a seat at the table and is a tribute to the courage it takes to chase a dream.
TRY THIS:
2024 Jim Barry Assyrtiko
RRP $37.99
Negociants
This is the ninth vintage of Jim Barry Assyrtiko and has fantastic balance thanks to its succulent acidity and lush textural palate – driven by glycerol and weight in the wine rather than residual sugar (of which there is none) and layers of flavour. Citrus aromas, lemon and lime zest flavours and an impressive mid-palate all give this wine a commanding taste.
Joelle Thomson is a journalist, wine writer and author.
